Opa's Sourdough Ciabatta
Rev 0.77, last revised: 03-Aug-05
[Caution: This recipe is still under
construction--steal at your own risk!]
"Ciabatta," is an Italian word meaning "slipper".
This distinctive bread gets its name from its slipper like shape. With a
dull flour covered crust, a Ciabatta loaf will be lightly browned, full of large
holes, flat, wide, and moderately long--like a favorite slipper... Enjoy!
Time: 2 days (about 20 hrs) to make
Type: Lean rustic sourdough
Yield: 2 Ciabatta loaves
The SPONGE:
- 50 gm [~2 oz - 1/4-cup] sourdough culture, refreshed and active
- 25 gm [~1 oz - 2 Tbsp] Rye flour
- 205 gm [~1-3/4 cups] bread flour (at least 12% protein)
- 370 gm [~1-3/4 cups] water
Whisk all the ingredients into a thick batter in your mixer bowl. Put in warm place and allow to ferment for 8-12 hours at or as
near to 85F (29C) as possible. I use my stove, with the light on, and
the door propped slightly ajar.
The DOUGH:
- 50 gm [~2 oz - 1/4-cup] whole-wheat "bread" flour
-
200 gm [~1-3/4 cups] 12% protein, bread flour [replaced 1/4 c w/semolina]
-
10 gm [~ 1 Tbsp] salt
- All of the sponge created in the preceding step
Mix all the ingredients using the dough hook, on low, to combine. Then turn the mixer up to medium and mix until the dough clears the bottom of the
bowl. This should take
5-10 minutes.
[NB: This type of dough is known as
'high-hydration' (very wet) dough. If you're used to making 'typical'
bread dough's, this will seem awkward & hard to handle (it is!). Have
faith and avoid the temptation to add more flour. - D.]
Tip out onto a well floured counter (an additional 1/4 - 1/2 cup should be
enough) and give the dough 6 Stretch 'n' Fold cycles at 10 minute intervals, using
additional flour only as necessary.
Divide your dough into 2 parts (or leave whole for a single larger
loaf). Stretch and pull the loaf into the shape desired. I generally
roll the dough back-n-forth a bit to get a nice, tubular shape. Since I
bake into a cold oven I place my loaf, seams down, onto a baking sheet in a COLD OVEN to
rise. Allow it to rise or proof for 1-5 hours (depends on your culture and
the temperature), or until it's doubled or even tripled. Depending on your
culture and the temperature, this should take about 3-hours.
When ready to bake, turn your oven ON to 450°F
[246°C] and bake 25-35 minutes, to an internal temp of at least 200°F
[95°C]. Use a stone if you like, and/or start it hot; just adjust
your temps and/or times a bit. Use water if you like. If you spray it on
the loaf, you'll get a
delicate, crispy crust. If you spray it in the oven and/or use a steamer,
the crust becomes thicker and chewier
(my favorite). However, in my experience there's enough moisture in the
dough so that no extra water is needed for excellent results.
Final notes:
The hydration is high but the dough is extremely elastic after the stretch and
fold cycles and is surprisingly resistant to deflation.
Stretch 'n' Fold:
Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and, using your bench knife to
slide underneath, roll the dough in the flour until it no longer sticks and form
it into a rough square. Grasp 2-opposing sides of the dough and stretch it
to an oblong with sides in the ratio 3:1. Fold the dough in 3, like a
letter, which will give you a rough square. Turn through 90 degrees and
leave to rest for 10 minutes. Repeat as specified
Rational:
A number of my fellow bakers have requested that I explain why I do some of
the things I do. I will attempt to itemize and elucidate some of the
aspects of this recipe in the order I implement them. Please keep in mind
that these are *my* specific aberrations. YMMV.
- Why "2 days" to make?
Sourdough starter needs to "come-up-to-speed." In order to
make the results consistent *and* to fit into my daily schedule, I do that
by starting it the night before. By starting it around 2200hrs (10:00 PM)
it gets to ferment and "come-around", ready-to-go, between 6 and
noon the next day.
I start almost all of my recipes with a primary ferment of 1-cup of water,
1-cup of flour, and 1/4-cup of starter. This makes the initial start
both easy and consistent. It also permits me to
"change-my-mind" overnight and make most anything I want...the
next day...in case I need to.
In this particular recipe, it also uses a little Rye flour for flavor and
color. Rye flour is particularly good at imparting
"sourness" and making the starter active, so it's a good idea to
add it into the initial ferment. When I know that I'll be making this
recipe, I'll add the Rye to the first ferment. When, as often happens,
I don't know what I want to make, I just make the vanilla flour, starter,
and water preferment. Adding the Rye, extra water and flour into the
dough instead of the sponge doesn't really affect the results in a noticeable
manner.
- Why [Pre] ferment at 85F? To some degree, this will be a
function of your starter and flour. My starter seems to do well with
this treatment. I've not noticed any difference using different
flours. But in all cases, the results--for me--of doing it like this have been
excellent! Obviously, YMMV.
- How much flour in the preferment? The goal is to have between
25 and 33% of your flour in the primary (overnight) ferment. Less will
tend towards a less active dough, and more will tends towards a slack and
limp dough. I usually get a tripling or quadrupling during my final
rise.
- Stretch & Fold: I don't know why, but the "stretch &
fold" technique certainly does seem to inject life and activity into
sourdough. I never fail to be amazed by the results one gets by using
this technique.
- Cold Start: For a variety of reasons (mostly for efficiency
and cost effectiveness--and because all of my recipes are designed to be
executed by someone living in an RV) I've chosen to design all of my recipes
to use a COLD OVEN as a starting point. Some folks insist that if you
don't pre-heat an oven to hot enough to melt lead for at least 48 hours, you
simply can't bake bread. I've experimented with this for years, and
I've found little to convince me that this is necessary.
I've charted the internal temperatures of "cold" dough inserted
into a very hot oven, and done the same for dough inserted into a cold oven;
the differences in the internal temperature rise is minor and only seem to
have a miniscule effect on the outcome. At most I add a few minutes to
the baking time. Despite the rabid rantings of the self-important
sourdough wizards, rise and finish of the crust didn't seem to be effected
at all. So all of my recipes are written for a COLD OVEN
start.
You're welcome to change that. Just remember to adjust the baking
temperature/time a bit to compensate.
- To water and steam? First, there are three distinct instances
of watering or "steaming" a loaf during baking in the home
oven: 1) spritzing the loaf directly; 2) spritzing the oven walls, and; 3)
add hot, boiling water to a tray at the bottom of the oven; or some
combination of all of those. A fourth instance would be: No
extra water is added.
In my experience when you bake into a cold oven, steaming is a little
different than when baking into a preheated oven. I find that
spritzing water on the boule before baking yields a thinner, shinier, crisper--often
blistered--crust. If you like or want that, have at it.
Spritzing water on the hot oven interior makes the crust chewier--and is
easy to do, but the oven usually isn't hot enough to make steam for the
first few minutes so this isn't very useful (for a cold start). Adding
boiling water to a steam tray, and letting the boule sit in that steam for
5-15 min before turning on the heat makes the crust thick *and* chewy (my
favorite!).
- Using a stone? I've done both. Since I bake into a cold
oven, I find that a stone slows the cooking of the bottom ( a useful
"feature" if
scorching is a problem). But mostly I find that it adds nothing to a
cold oven start. If you use a hot oven start, you might find it
beneficial.
- Recipe? Baking sourdough bread is an exercise in dedication
and exploration--not becoming a slave to a chemical formula. Within
the limits impose upon you by time, temperature, and ingredients; you will
be able to experiment with a wide latitude of times, temperatures,
ingredients, and methods. Rather than become a slave to a formula or
rules, use my recipes as a general guide while you experience the various
aspects of this elegant and ancient baking art.
Source:
The original, from which this recipe was derived, was posted to the r.f.sd group by a gracious fellow with the
NG handle, "Wcsjohn", and can be found here.
These words of baking wisdom from Roy Basan need to be evaluated...
Ciabatta whether made by bakers yeast, or sourdough culture requires proper
baking sequence:
Preheat the oven to 250 deg C. Mist the atmosphere with lots of
steam.
Load the proofed dough on the oven floor.
1) 250 degree C ( with lots of steam for crust formation) for first
5-10 minutes of baking.
2) Then reduce the heat to 225-230 deg C( to help stabilize the
crust) and bake for 20-25 minutes.
3) Finally at 200 deg C for 15 minutes ( to maintain the crust and dry
excess moisture out).
The bread will usually come out well with a thick crust that is really stable
but with a normal open crumb texture typical of ciabatta.